WALKING DOWN-UNDER: TE ARAROA

“Waiau Pass : Suitable for experienced alpine parties only”
Two guys: two fridge sized packs. One adventure

Matt Nash, from Sandford has been strolling the 2800km length of New Zealand since October raising money for St. John Eye Hospital. Visit www.nzwalk.blogspot.com
This article starts with an account of our week together, and has suggestions for your own trips to New Zealand and Sydney.

Our plan: a 7 day tramp south on the rough and demanding tracks through the remote forests and river valleys of central South Island. We carried an emergency locator beacon, left St Arnaud and followed the lakeside and river paths for 2 days: bell-birds chimed, and Matt suffered multiple wasp-stings in the dense beech forest. We crossed gorges on high suspended wire bridges and stayed overnight in mountain huts. By the third day we were high in the mountains and crossed the 1780m Travers saddle, some snow still around, and a bus-sized rock waiting its turn to slide down the steep scree. The route down was slippery, steep and seemingly endless as it followed an avalanche path back down into the bush. We repaired our wounds and pressed on. At one point the riverside had collapsed, taking the path with it. Extreme nerve was needed to avoid plunging into the icy torrent below.( Technique: float down on top of rucksack, feet first. Try not to die instantly of cold shock.) At remote Blue Lake hut we lit the fire and warmed up, and just before dark a muscular figure in running shorts entered. Col, regular winner of mountain races, had completed our 3-day walk in one long day: he wasn’t carrying a fridge.

Next morning Matt was reluctant to stir: he realised what lay ahead and had not slept well.
The high level route now climbed scree and wound its way above bluffs overlooking Lake Constance, the track appearing and disappearing in the steep scrubby hillside until descending impossible slopes. We examined the surrounding mountains to find the route of the pass and were horrified to see the marker posts straight up scree for 600m before veering off, seemingly just avoiding the 2300m tops. High up we left the marked route towards some solid-looking rock to hold onto, only to find it simply broke off in hand and underfoot! We inched up, and finally reached the top of the pass, at 1870m the 2nd highest on the proposed Te Araroa route, and well above the snowline most of the year.
A very steep descent followed before bush-bashing the remains of an old path through rocky and unpredictable terrain, wading the Waiau river, and then following its bank, alternately bush-bashing and rock-hopping over miles of unstable avalanche falls, where one careless step produced a threatening rock-slide. The 12 hour struggle brought us to the bivvy – a tiny hut with 2 bunks and some candles. A bowl of back-country cuisine and sleep.

Pastoral scenery followed, and lots of river wading. We met a farmer who was anxious for a solo woman tramper on our route: we had not seen her, but ominously a rescue helicopter flew up the valley soon after. We then followed the lovely St James Walkway for two days, but both the weather and my boots broke, so we were glad to follow the Lewis Pass road to the nearby thermal springs hot-tub and some beers. We were still alive!

Other stunning walks in New Zealand
The most popular one-day walk is the North Island Tongariro crossing, over a very live sulphur-steaming volcano, passing multi-coloured volcanic lakes. Shuttles to and from the route are well organised, and you can even include, as I did, a climb to the perfect volcanic cone of nearby Mt Ngauruhoe (Mt Doom) 2291m. But wear good boots and gaiters to keep out the fine lava.
On South Island many backpackers head for the Abel Tasman National Park, and its manicured coastal walk amongst fern-trees and granite, which can be combined with kayaking. Overnight you will have your personal crescent beach.
Other popular trails include the nearby Heaphy track, which combines bush and beach. And naturally I recommend The St James Walkway and Nelson Lakes tracks, but not the Waiau Pass! In the far south, where it is cooler and wetter, are the mountainous Routeburn and Kepler tracks: ignore the famous Milford track which is over-booked.

I love New Zealand: it’s the people. Kindest and most helpful were the owners of Stafford House, a quiet out-of-town up-market B&B near Nelson, convenient for Abel Tasman, Heaphy, Golden Bay etc.( E.mail staffordplace.co.nz)

And finally - Oz
A little space for Oz! If you find yourself in Sydney, take the slow-train to the nearby Blue Mountains, a high plateau cut by huge cliff-sided gorges. From Wentworth Falls the National Pass is hewn in to the cliffside, and you can choose to climb down a steep path and ladders to bathe under the waterfall. Allow 4 hours and carry plenty of water. There are lots of walks. I tramped in the bush with a young experienced German on the “6-foot track”, and crossed my first scary swing-bridge. We swam in crystal river pools and camped under stars brighter than I have ever seen, with kangaroos, foxes and colourful birdlife for company. This and other longer tracks require some care, as the heat and humidity can be humbling: run out of water or get lost and you won’t return.

I have also watched the Sydney locals walking up and down in their swimming pools, and at Wylies seapool you will compete with fish for space. Back on land there is a popular coastal walkway through Bondi and Coogee. Altogether there is plenty to keep you out of the shops and bars!