3 Walks: Exmoor

Connect's local walks expert CED RENISON guides us along three Exmoor routes to discover Tarr Steps and the Barle Valley

FOR all its wide open space, Exmoor feels welcoming, and you are never too far from civilisation. The scenery varies from deep wooded valleys with fast flowing rivers to bleak heather moorland, with unexpected coombes, lonely farms and pretty villages - it is excellent for walking.

I like to re-read Lorna Doone before spending time on Exmoor - just to feel its spirit. So, beware of the Doones, the band of outlaws living in a hidden valley, who rob and terrorise the local population!

Tarr Steps form a long clapper bridge across the river Barle, and are possibly the finest stone causeway in Britain. There are 17 huge gritstone slabs, the heaviest weighing over two tonnes, and it appears likely to date from the 13th century. However, some claim it was built by the devil.

The Two Moors Way follows the Barle Valley from Withypool to Hawkridge, and there is an alternative high level route. The three walks described use both routes, and additionally there are several carefully waymarked paths from Tarr Steps. Boots are needed, as all the paths tend to be muddy.

The nearby, tiny, but busy town of Dulverton has everything you may need, and has a tradition of weaving.

Directions
Tarr Steps is seven miles north of Dulverton, off the B3223, and is well signposted. Park at the large official carpark. There are toilets.


Walk one (two miles: allow 1.5 hours)
Stroll from the carpark down the path to the river and Tarr Steps, and follow the waymarked circular path upstream on the right-hand bank. Cross the footbridge and return on the other bank through North Barton Woods. Now you can enjoy a cuppa or a pint outside the perfectly placed Tarr Farm Inn and Cafe.


Walk two (3.5 miles: allow 2.5 hours)
Stride across Tarr Steps and follow the signposted path uphill to the tiny village of Hawkridge. There are views over the Barle Valley from this fairly high level path. From opposite the church, return down Marshclose Hill lane, which quickly drops to run alongside the river back to Tarr Steps.


Walk 3 (nine miles: allow five hours: take food and drink)
From Tarr Steps follow the right-hand bank upstream for five miles to Withypool, along lovely wooded paths, and through some rather soggy fields. This is a beautiful walk at any time of the year. At the village of Withypool turn left onto the road and pass the Royal Oak (good food), shop and toilets and cross the bridge and cattle grid. Walk south (signposted 'Hawkridge 3.5 miles') up a long steep hill, passing houses on your right, and continue on the moorland road (Worth Lane) for two miles until the road drops sharply.
At the bottom, past Westwater Farm, cross a small stream and immediately turn left onto a bridleway signposted 'Tarr Steps 2 miles'