Environmental Gardening

IN her first contribution to Connect, our new Greener Gardening expert Nell Williams looks at why we should all garden in a way that considers the environment - and how to do it!

ALTHOUGH Connect has looked at Greener Gardening in the past, it seemed appropriate, as I begin the first of my contributions, to look at just what it means.

Greener gardening means gardening in a way which considers the environment, and can be as little or as much as you personally choose to do. Examples range from composting your garden waste, through planting to attract wildlife, to organic gardening where no chemicals are used on the vegetables, fruit and flowers grown. All subjects we will be looking at in the coming issues of Connect.

Many people are put off by the thought of gardening like this, wrongly assuming that it will be more complex and harder work than gardening with chemicals. Others think that it means untidy and unattractive gardens.

Why should we try to garden in an environmentally sound way?

It's better for wildlife.
Organic and greener gardening follow the idea that we work with nature rather than against it, using natural predator/prey relationships that have developed over time.

For example, ladybird larvae are carnivorous predators, each devouring thousands of aphids before pupating and becoming ladybirds. But the chemical sprays used to kill off the aphids will also kill the ladybird larvae. So, there will be no new generation of ladybirds to lay eggs for larvae to eat the aphids and, therefore, when the aphids become a problem again, more chemical sprays will be needed.

In general, predators are much slower to adapt to chemicals than prey species. Also, their populations are smaller to start with, and their reproduction rates are slower. This means that when chemicals are used it is often more detrimental to the predator than the pest you were trying to destroy - and when you stop using chemicals, it may take some time for the natural balance to be regained. It is possible to buy colonies of ladybirds to restock your population, incidentally.

It's good for the soil
One of the most important aspects of greener gardening is maintaining soil fertility. This is achieved through crop rotation, the addition of compost and the use of green manures. (These will be covered in more detail in the April/May issue of Connect)

The idea is that, by feeding the soil, plants are healthier and less prone to pest damage. Chemical 'force feeding' of crops tends to result in softer, sappier growth, which is more prone to pest attack and thus requires spraying with further chemicals to protect the plants from pest damage.

It's better for us!
A further benefit of greener gardening is that you are not exposing yourself, your children, neighbours or pets to potentially dangerous chemicals. Plants absorb chemicals and we then consume the plants. Over the years, different chemicals thought to be 'safe' have been deemed not so, and withdrawn from use - who knows what the chemicals currently in use are doing to our bodies?

So where do we start?
First you need to decide how green you want to be. The obvious answer from an environmental perspective is as green as possible. However, in order to enjoy your change in lifestyle, and not become totally disheartened, I wouldn't recommend getting several allotments and deciding on a policy of self-sufficiency. At least, not initially!

Think about what you have time and space for, and what you enjoy doing. If cooking is your thing, why not start off with some herbs and salad plants in pots and containers on your patio, or even on your window-sill?

Composting
Composting your kitchen and garden waste means less rubbish in landfill sites (a commodity that is rapidly being used up), and it also saves you money because you won't need to buy-in compost to feed your garden.

There are lots of designs of compost bins available commercially, but they can be made from scrap timber or old pallets as long as the basic principles are followed.

The optimum size for a compost heap is a metre square: smaller and the heap won't heat sufficiently; larger and it becomes difficult to work. Layers of different materials are put in the heap, starting with twiggy material at the bottom to provide aeration. If the material is all fairly dry, pour on some water - the heap needs to be damp to work. Urine is also a very good activator for compost heaps - if you are brave enough to collect it.

Once the heap is built, cover it with carpet or plastic to help with insulation and leave it to rot. This will take 6-12 months, depending on the temperature, materials used, etc. Having two bins next to each other helps because you can turn the heap into the second bin during this time, and turning helps the decomposition because it mixes the material at the edge of the heap (which will be decomposing more slowly) with the rapidly decomposing material at the centre.

Pretty much anything can go into a compost heap:

• garden waste - but not diseased materials;
  
• lawn clippings;
  
• cat/dog/human hair;
  
  
• newspaper and cardboard - shredded and soaked in water first;
  
  kitchen waste - but not meat or cooked food because this will attract rats.
  
  
• All kitchen waste, including cooked food, can go into a wormery though - more about these in April's edition!

Attracting wildlife
Planting species which are attractive to beneficial insects is an important aspect of greener gardening. Tagetes ( French marigold) and Calendula (Pot marigold) both attract insects such as hoverflies; sedums, buddlejas, lavenders and Michaelmas daisies will all attract butterflies. Native hedging plants such as Cratageus (hawthorn), Rosa canina (dog rose) Rosa rugosa, Acer campestre (field maple) Conius alba (dogwood) and Corylus avellana (hazel) will provide seeds and berries for birds as well as shelter in the winter and nesting space in spring. Ponds provide habitats for newts, frogs and toads, which will eat your slugs and snails, as well as a water source for other wildlife.

Growing fruit and vegetables
See the tasks for February and March to find out what to do at the moment.

This is a vast subject and I would recommend checking out the local library or bookshops for more detailed information. There are various publications available and organisations such as HDRA - the Henry Doubleday Research Association. Based at Ryton Organic Gardens, near Coventry, this organisation provides a range of leaflets on composting, organic gardening, etc, as well as a Heritage Seed library where members can obtain unusual vegetable seeds.

As a general rule of thumb I would say to grow vegetables and fruit that you like, rather than because your neighbours are growing them, or because you feel you ought. For example, potatoes and onions take up lots of space, are easy to buy and not particularly interesting to look at. Growing unusual salad crops, purple sweetcorn, heritage tomatoes, or rainbow chard may well be more rewarding.

Sourcing seeds
Seeds for unusual vegetables can be obtained from the following suppliers, all of whom I have used myself:

Chase Organics
The Organic Gardening Catalogue, Riverdene, Molesey Road, Hersham, Surrey KT12 4RG. Tel: 01932 253666. Website: www.OrganicCatalog.com. Email: chaseorg@aol.com

Seeds by Size (supply seeds in whatever quantity you require, especially useful for gardeners with limited space)
45 Crouchfield, Boxmoor, Hemel Hempstead, Herts BPI IPA. Tel: 01442 251458 Website: www.seeds-by-size.co.uk

Simpson's Seeds (an amazing array of tomatoes, chilli peppers, aubergines and more!)
The Walled Garden Nursery, Horningsham, Warminster, Wilts BA12 7NQ Tel: 01985 845004

The VidaVerde Seed Collection (a private collection of rare, heirloom and heritage varieties of unusual vegetables, all tried and tested with smallscale gardeners in mind.
14 Southdown Avenue, Lewes, East Sussex, BN7 I EL Website: www.vidaverde.co.uk Email: info@vidaverde.co.uk

Henry Doubleday Research Association
Ryton Organic Gardens, Coventry CV8 MG Tel: 01203 303517